There was no cheering crowd. All the windows and doors were shut, and people who wanted to see the Vali were forced to use side streets, where they were pushed around by soldiers. With the help of the dragoman (translator) from the British Consulate and the kavass (guard), I had an easy path. I was treated like an important person, and every soldier saluted me as I passed. But instead of feeling proud, I felt ridiculous and wanted to laugh. It reminded me of two other times in my life: when I received a book prize as a boy and when I walked up the aisle at my wedding.
A Glimpse of the Women
Though people weren’t allowed to watch the procession, it was easy to spot women behind the windows. On a mosque wall, a group of women was gathered, all dressed in thick coverings, with only their eyes visible Private Bulgaria Tours.
The Exhibition in Adrianople
The Vali was about to open the first-ever exhibition in Turkey, featuring products from Adrianople. This was a sign of Turkey’s progress. The exhibition felt like a smaller version of a big event, like the Earl’s Court Exhibition in London. The main item on display was cigarettes. The Turkish women selling them were as persistent as those you would find in any market. These girls were Christian Turks, and their faces were uncovered. Older, heavier Turkish men watched and made suggestive comments.
The Exhibition Products
There were many tobacco products in various stages of preparation. There were bad paintings, some decent woolen items, and excellent embroidery. While farming tools were on display, most of them were imported.
A Sweltering Crowd of Officials
The exhibition was crowded with officials, all of them very fat. They wore a lot of gold and silver lace, broad sashes, and many medals. The greetings were very enthusiastic. When you greet someone in Turkey, you perform a deep bow and then wave your hand from the ground to your chest, up to your forehead, as a sign of respect. This gesture means that all parts of you—your feet, heart, head, and even your boots and fez—belong to the other person. When entering a room, everyone does this to you, and you return the gesture to everyone in the room. This made it impossible to do anything except bow and wave The Fear of the Turks.
My Inability to Keep Up with the Ceremony
I quickly realized I was too awkward to keep up with all the formal greetings from the thirty old Turkish men in the room. So, I chose to hide behind my nationality and only bow and shake hands with the few people near me. After a long round of formalities, we all went into the garden, listened to the band, and ate some bland ice cream.
