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A Famous Place of Natural Hot Baths

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A Famous Place of Natural Hot Baths

This place is well known and often visited because of its natural hot baths. There are five baths in total, and all of them are built in a very convenient way. Each bath has wide and safe steps that lead down into the water, and they are covered with large and high roofs to protect visitors from the weather. The springs that feed these baths are very clear, and the water looks clean and inviting Gold Found in the Silver Ore of Schemnitz.

The sediment found in the baths is mainly red and green in color. Over time, the wood and seats that remain under the water become covered with a hard, stony layer formed by the minerals in the springs. It is even said that if a piece of silver is left in the water for some time, it appears as if it has been gilded, which shows the strong mineral quality of the springs.

The Remarkable Sweating Bath

Among all the baths, the most remarkable one is known as the Sweating Bath. The hot springs that supply this bath flow through a nearby hill and then fall into a specially built basin. At one end of the bath, there is an entrance that leads upward into a cave. This cave has been turned into a kind of natural stove by the heat of the thermal waters.

Inside the cave, seats are arranged at different heights. This clever design allows visitors to control how much heat they receive. If someone wants to sweat more, they can sit on a higher and hotter seat. If they prefer less heat, they can sit lower where the temperature is milder. In this way, each person can choose the level of warmth that suits them best Turkey Sightseeing.

The cave and the sides of the bath are constantly covered by drops of hot mineral water. Because of this, the walls are coated with beautiful layers of red, white, and green mineral deposits. These natural colors make the cave very attractive and pleasant to look at.

An Unusual Scene in the Main Bath

While I was bathing in the largest of these baths, there were many men and women bathing together. During this time, an energetic and playful man decided to entertain the company. Without being noticed, he climbed quietly to the top of the building that covered the bath. Suddenly, he jumped down into the water with great force.

After diving in, he held onto the bottom of the seats under the water and remained submerged for a surprising amount of time. This act amazed and amused many of the bathers. However, the situation soon became more dramatic.

The Appearance of the Serpent

A serpent suddenly entered the bath through a channel that carried water into it. When the women saw the creature, many of them became frightened and alarmed. The same man who had entertained the crowd quickly stepped forward to help and protect the bathers.

To show his courage and kindness, he approached the serpent without hesitation. In a short time, he managed to catch it with both hands. Then, in a shocking display of boldness, he lifted the serpent out of the water, placed it in his mouth, and bit off its head. His actions quickly ended the danger and calmed the frightened bathers.

A Conversation in the Stove

Impressed by his good humor and bravery, I later invited him into the heated cave or stove area. During our conversation, I learned that he had previously worked in the mines. Curious about his experience, I asked him several questions about his work. Among other things, I inquired whether he had ever seen natural vitriol in the mines, since such mineral substances were often found in underground mining regions.

Gold Found in the Silver Ore of Schemnitz

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Gold Found in the Silver Ore of Schemnitz

Most of the silver ore found in Schemnitz contains a small amount of gold mixed within it. Because of this, the miners and metal workers use a careful method to separate the gold from the silver. First, they melt the silver taken from the ore. After melting, the silver is granulated into small pieces so that it can be treated more easily. Then it is dissolved in a strong liquid called aqua fortis, which is made from a special kind of vitriol prepared in that region.

When the silver is dissolved in this liquid, the gold does not dissolve in the same way. Instead, it settles at the bottom of the vessel. The gold is then collected and melted separately to form pure metal. After this process, the aqua fortis is distilled away from the silver solution and can be used again. This shows that the workers are not wasteful and try to reuse their materials whenever possible Sightseeing Turkey.

Writings on Mines and Mineral Work

It would take a very long time to describe every part of the mining works in this region, because they are large, complex, and very active. These mines deserve as careful and detailed descriptions as the famous mines of other regions that have been studied by learned writers. Scholars such as Agricola wrote extensively about mining and metals in his books, especially in De Re Metallica, where he explained many methods of mining and refining ores. Other authors, like Lazarus Ercker, also described ores and mineral bodies in a clear and useful way.

Even so, Schemnitz stands out as a place where both nature and human skill show their greatest strength. The richness of the minerals and the effort of the workers make it one of the most remarkable mining regions in the world.

Mining Methods and Improvements

The miners in this country still work in a way that is similar to the methods used during the time of Emperor Rudolf. He strongly supported mining and encouraged the development of mine works throughout his lands. Although the basic methods have remained the same, many of the tools, machines, and engines have been improved over time. These improvements help the workers dig deeper, remove water more efficiently, and process ore with greater success Reporting the Quality of the Ore.

Despite the great quantity of silver produced every week in Schemnitz and transported away in carts, it is surprisingly difficult to obtain even a small piece of pure silver in the town. Most of the local money is not pure silver but is mixed with more than half copper. Because of this, pure silver is rare in everyday use.

Experiments with Mineral Waters and Metals

I wished to observe how the different mineral waters in the region would affect metals. However, since I could not easily obtain pure silver, I had to borrow silver crosses, crucifixes, and medals to use in my experiments. These objects served as substitutes for raw silver and allowed me to continue my observations.

A Remarkable Colored Rock near Old Schemnitz

Near the site where old Schemnitz once stood, there is a tall and steep rock that is very striking in appearance. From bottom to top, the rock is naturally colored with beautiful shades of blue, along with some green and spots of yellow. When I first saw it, I was greatly amazed by its beauty. It looked almost like a massive piece of polished lapis lazuli.

A Spaniard who had lived for many years in the West Indies once told me that there is a similar rock near the silver mines in Peru. This comparison suggests that such natural wonders may be found in other rich mining regions of the world.

The Lost Gold Mine at Glas-Hitten

About one Hungarian mile, or roughly seven English miles, from Schemnitz lies a place called Glas-Hitten. In earlier times, there was a very rich gold mine there. However, the entrance to this mine has been lost. This happened during the time when Bethlen Gabor invaded the country and many inhabitants fled the area in fear.

The owner of the mine had left certain marks and directions so that the mine could be rediscovered in the future. These signs included drawings of his mining instruments carved onto the bark of nearby trees. Some of these instruments have already been found buried in the earth, which suggests that the clues are true. It is said that when a stone carved with the image of a face is discovered, it will mark the true location of the mine. At that point, only a part of the rock that blocks the entrance needs to be removed to open the lost gold mine once again.

Reporting the Quality of the Ore

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Reporting the Quality of the Ore

After the assayer has tested the ore and measured how much silver it contains, he reports his findings to the workers who operate the great melting furnaces. These workers depend greatly on his judgment. His report helps them decide how much of each material must be added to the ore so that it melts properly and produces the best amount of silver. Without this careful report, the melting process would be uncertain and wasteful A Famous Place of Natural Hot Baths.

The workers do not treat all ore in the same way. Instead, they change the mixture based on the richness and nature of the ore. For example, if they have one hundred centen, or about ten thousand pounds, of silver ore that contains more than two and a half ounces of silver in every hundred pounds, they prepare a special mixture to improve the melting.

Materials Mixed with the Ore

To this large quantity of ore, they add about forty centen of “Letch,” which is ore that has already been pounded and washed. This helps the melting process by improving the flow of the material in the furnace. They also add around two hundred centen of iron-stone. This iron-stone is not true iron ore but a special kind of stone found in the nearby hills. The miners say that the liver-colored variety is the best and most useful for their work.

In addition, they include a quantity of “Kis,” which is a kind of pyrites. The amount of this material depends on how much marcasite is mixed with the ore. If the ore contains more marcasite, then more Kis is added to balance the mixture. Another substance they add is called “Slacken.” This is the scum or crust that forms on the surface of melted metals in the pan. It is collected during earlier smelting and reused. Slacken is created from the fusion of the different materials used in the furnace and can help control the melting process Private Turkey Tours .

The Process of Melting in the Furnace

Once all the materials are properly mixed, they are placed inside the melting furnace. When the mixture melts, the liquid metal flows out through a hole at the bottom of the furnace. It then runs into a large pan that is set into the ground in front of the furnace. As soon as the melted substance is exposed to the air, a hard crust or scum quickly forms on the surface.

This crust, also called dross or cake, must be removed again and again. Workers carefully take it off from the top while the metal continues to melt and settle below. By constantly removing this scum, the remaining metal becomes purer and cleaner.

The Use of Lead in Separating Silver

During this stage, lead is added to the melted mixture. Lead plays a very important role in the process. It attracts and gathers the silver, carrying it down to the bottom of the pan. Over time, the silver and lead settle together, forming a heavier mass separate from the waste materials.

After enough time has passed, the melted metal is taken out and moved to another furnace called the driving furnace. This second furnace is used to refine the metal even further.

Refining the Silver in the Driving Furnace

In the driving furnace, the mixture of silver and lead is heated once again. Two large bellows blow strong air into the fire, making the heat more intense. This strong heat causes the lead and other remaining impurities to separate from the silver.

As the impurities melt and burn away, they flow off in the form of litharge. The litharge that first comes off is white in color because it has been exposed to the fire for a shorter time. Later, the litharge becomes red, as it remains longer in the intense heat of the furnace. However, both the white and red litharge come from the same metal and are not different metals. Through this careful process of melting, skimming, and refining, the workers are able to produce purer silver from the original ore.

The Wide Spread of Greek Christianity

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The Wide Spread of Greek Christianity

The Greek Christians are found not only in Greece and the Greek islands, but also across many other regions of Europe. They live throughout the Turkish parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, as well as in Rascia, Bosnia, Serbia, Thrace, Zagora, Bulgaria, and Syria. They are also present in Bessarabia, Cossack lands, Podolia, Moldavia, and Wallachia. Beyond these areas, they are spread widely through the vast dominions of the Emperor of Russia Onions and Daily Food.

Because of this great number and wide distribution, they must form a very important part of Christendom. This reality reminded me strongly of a statement made by a learned writer. He said that if we were to gather together all the Christian regions in Europe that belong to the Greek Communion, and then compare them with the regions that follow the Roman Church, we would discover that the Greek Church greatly exceeds the Roman in extent and population. This observation challenged my earlier understanding and caused me to reflect more deeply on the balance of Christian traditions in Europe.

The Land and Its Cultivation

The fields surrounding this town are carefully planted with vines, cotton, and sesame. These crops show both the fertility of the soil and the diligence of the people who work the land. Vineyards stretch across the countryside, while cotton and sesame provide important materials for trade and daily use. The landscape is therefore not only beautiful, but also highly productive Ephesus Daily Tour.

The Emperor’s Resident and His Household

The Emperor’s Resident, known as the Most Illustrious Signore di Casanova, was comfortably settled in this town. He lived in a fine house and maintained a large household of about thirty people, both Turks and Christians. At the gate of his residence stood two Janissaries, who served as guards. They were good-natured, well-behaved, and as fair in their conduct as one could wish.

The Resident was a native of Milan. He was a serious and sober man, somewhat inclined to melancholy, and deeply devoted to his books and reading. Despite his reserved nature, he was very polite, civil, and courteous in his dealings with others.

Daily Life in the Resident’s Household

The Resident always dined and supped alone. His secretary, interpreters, and other members of his household ate in a separate place. However, they were always well provided for and served in the Turkish manner. This arrangement showed both discipline and order within the household, as well as respect for different customs and traditions.

Relations with the Ambassador of Ragusa

The Ambassador of Ragusa also chose to live in the same town. As a result, the followers of both households often encountered one another in the streets. Many polite greetings and courteous gestures were exchanged between them. However, these courtesies were limited to messages and formal signs of respect, for the two diplomats themselves never met in person.

Diplomatic Pride and Disputes

The reason for this distance was a matter of strict ceremony and rank. The Ambassador of Ragusa claimed the right to take the first place, because he held the full title of ambassador, while the other was only a resident. This insistence on precedence caused tension and kept them apart.

Many Germans looked down upon the Ragusan ambassador for this behavior. They considered his masters to be little more than gentlemen of the “seven banners,” meaning people who had been subjects or tributaries under many different rulers. In their view, such claims to superiority were not worthy of respect, and the dispute itself appeared petty and unnecessary.

Onions and Daily Food

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Onions and Daily Food

The onions of this country are quick in taste, pleasantly pungent, and yet they do not have any offensive smell. Even though I was not fond of onions before, I found these to be very agreeable and comforting to my stomach. They are used at almost every light meal and are eaten in large amounts together with bread. The people consider them both healthy and nourishing.

While traveling, I asked a gentleman from our own country, who had journeyed through many dominions and lands, whether he had ever found onions as good as those of this region. He replied that the onions of Egypt were even better. This was the first time I clearly understood the meaning of the words in Scripture, and I no longer wondered why the Israelites longed so deeply for the onions of that land. Their desire suddenly seemed natural and understandable Ephesus Sightseeing.

A Curious Local Fruit

The people also grow a fruit which they call zan (or by a similar name). It lies somewhere between a melon and a cucumber in shape and taste. From this fruit they prepare a very pleasant dish. First, they remove the middle part and the seeds. Then they fill it with the meat of sausages. After that, they peel it and boil it carefully. The result is a dish that is both filling and enjoyable, and it is often served at meals in local households.

Foreign Representatives at the Sultan’s Court

Among the representatives of foreign nations who attended the Grand Signior were the resident of the Emperor of Germany, the ambassador of Ragusa, and another from neighboring frontier lands. There were also ambassadors concerned mainly with trade, who lived around Constantinople and were not required to stay closely at the Sultan’s court at all times.

Because Constantinople was very crowded and filled with people, the Emperor’s resident requested permission from the Sultan to live in a nearby town instead. The Sultan allowed him to choose any town or house that pleased him. This generous permission led him to select the city of Tornovo.

The City of Tornovo

Tornovo is a large and pleasant city located about ten miles west of Larissa and close to the hills. Most of its inhabitants are Christians. There are only three mosques, but as many as eighteen Greek churches. This shows how strong and well-established the Christian presence is in this area.

Among the churches, the most important ones I observed were the Cathedral Church of Saint John, the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin, and the Church of Saint Elias. The Church of Saint Elias also has an adjoining monastery, which is beautifully placed on the side of a hill. Other notable churches include those of the Twelve Apostles, Saint Nicholas (which also has a convent), and Saint Anthony the Hermit Abundance of Fruits and Crops.

The bishop of this city is under the authority of the Archbishop of Larissa, showing the organized structure of the Greek Church in this region.

The Strength of the Greek Christian Faith

I could not help but notice how much these eastern parts of Europe are filled with Christians of the Greek Church, far beyond what I had expected. They are found in many large countries, including Greece and its neighboring regions. This wide presence clearly shows that the Greek Christian faith remained strong and deeply rooted throughout these lands, despite political changes and foreign rule.

Abundance of Fruits and Crops

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Abundance of Fruits and Crops

The country produces very large, beautiful, and delicious fruits. Among these are figs and watermelons, which are the largest and most pleasant I have ever tasted. These fruits are extremely refreshing, especially in warm weather. The land also provides fine and delicate pomegranates, oranges, lemons, and citrons, all growing in great abundance. Because of the rich soil and favorable climate, fruit trees thrive easily and give generous harvests each year.

Vines are also common in this country. They grow low to the ground and are not supported by wooden frames or poles, as in some other regions. Instead, their branches spread naturally, and the grape clusters are large and heavy. The grapes themselves are about the size of good damsons and have a rich and delightful taste. They are pleasant both to eat fresh and to use for making wine.

Wine and Tobacco

The wine of the country is strong and rich. However, much of it has a resin-like taste, which may not please every traveler. This flavor likely comes from the way the wine is stored or prepared. Even so, it is valued by the local people and widely consumed The Wide Spread of Greek Christianity.

Tobacco is also planted in many places. The people believe their tobacco is better than that brought from other lands. They consider it stronger and more pungent, and it is held in high esteem among local smokers.

Trees and Cultivated Plants

The fields are spread with cotton plants and cotton trees. These trees do not grow very tall, but they still make a pleasing sight when seen across the countryside. Almond and olive trees are also plentiful. The Greeks especially enjoy olives that are fully ripe and pickled, while in other countries people often prefer green olives instead.

Along the hedges grow gourds with large yellow flowers. These, together with many kinds of green thorn bushes and evergreen oaks, make the roads and pathways very pleasant to walk along.

Wild Plants and Medicinal Herbs

Several useful plants grow naturally in this land. The Ilex coccifera and the kermes berry are found here. These are used for dyeing cloth and producing a red coloring substance. On the high hills grow hellebore and other strong plants known for their medicinal uses Local Ephesus Tour Guides.

In the stony plains, one can find cardoons, cistus, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, and many other sweet-smelling plants. Their fragrance fills the air and adds to the charm of the landscape.

The Plane Tree and Ancient Learning

The plane tree grows especially well in Macedonia. It is large, wide-spreading, and provides a cool and refreshing shade. Because of this, it is not surprising that the ancient physician Hippocrates once found the philosopher Democritus sitting beneath a plane tree in Macedonia. The tree offered a peaceful place for thought and learning.

Some of the seeds and plant cuttings from this region were brought back to England, showing how valuable and interesting these plants were to travelers.

Food and Daily Diet

Garlic is used generously in most local dishes. It is a common and much-loved ingredient. The onions of the country are also remarkable. They are as large as two or three good onions in England combined and have a much better taste. Though sharp and strong, they are fresh, quick in flavor, and greatly enjoyed by the people.

Arrival at Leskovac

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Arrival at Leskovac

From there, we came to Leskovac, also called Lefcovia. In this town, I observed little of special note, except for a large tower, which appeared to be very old. It seemed ancient in its construction, but I could find no inscription upon it to explain its origin or purpose. Still, its size and position suggested that it once played an important role, perhaps in defense or observation The River Morava and Its Trade.

The Great Fair and the Chiaus

During our stay in Leskovac, we spent much of our time at a large fair, which happened to be held at that moment. The fair took place in a spacious enclosed area and drew a great number of people from the surrounding regions. Merchants, travelers, and villagers gathered there to buy, sell, and exchange goods, making the place lively and crowded.

At this fair, I thought it proper to present the Chiaus with a feather, as he had lost his the day before. We had already noticed some inconvenience from its absence, since the feather was a sign of authority. With it, we were able to travel more easily and command greater respect wherever we went. Once the Chiaus had the feather again, our passage through towns and villages became noticeably smoother.

The Winding River Lyperitza

Leskovac is situated beside the notable River Lyperitza. This river may well be called the Meander of Moesia, for it winds and twists through the hills in a most remarkable way. Indeed, within the space of less than twelve hours, we crossed the same river ninety times, so often did it curve back and forth across our path Ephesus Daily Tours.

This strange winding reminded me of the River Taro in Italy, which I once crossed forty times while traveling through the lands of Parma before reaching Fornovo. Rivers like these show how strongly nature shapes the roads and journeys of travelers.

Crossing the Mountain Cliffura

The next day, we traveled over the Mountain Cliffura, which is one of the spurs or offshoots of Mount Haemus. We were greatly surprised by the splendid appearance of this mountain. The rocks and stones shone like silver, and in the light of both sun and moon they produced a bright and glittering display.

This shining effect came from the presence of muscovy glass, a mineral that reflects light strongly. I was so taken by it that I collected a small piece and later brought it home with me as a curiosity.

Descent by the Castle of Golubac

From the mountain, we descended by a narrow and rocky path, passing near the strong Castle of Kolombotz, also called Golubac. This fortress is well positioned and commands the surrounding area. After descending, we arrived at Urania, which lies at the foot of the hill.

This place forms a strong and important pass, entirely controlled by the castle above. Whoever holds the fortress effectively locks and unlocks the passage, making it a site of great military value. The steep terrain and commanding height of the castle show why it has long been considered a key point in the defense of the region.

The River Morava and Its Trade

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The River Morava and Its Trade

By the River Morava, many of the goods of Servia and part of Bulgaria are carried down into the Danube, from where they are spread to many other regions. This river serves as an important route for trade and transport. Along its current flow agricultural products, wine, timber, and other local goods. In the opposite direction, traveling up the river, merchants bring salt and other commodities from Hungary, Austria, and neighboring countries. In this way, the Morava connects distant lands and supports the livelihood of many people who live along its banks Ephesus Day Tour.

A Great Battle Near the Morava

Not far from this river took place a great defeat of the Turks, led by the famous commander John Hunyadi. With only ten thousand horsemen, he boldly attacked the Turkish camp by moonlight. The surprise was complete. In this daring assault, thirty thousand Turks were slain, and four thousand were taken prisoner. After this great victory, Hunyadi returned safely to his own camp.

At that time, he left Uladislaus and George Despot of Servia in command. This battle remains one of the most remarkable examples of courage and strategy in the history of the region, and it shows how even a smaller force, if well led, can overcome a much larger enemy.

Arrival at Kruševac

After passing through these historic lands, we finally arrived at Halli Jahisar, called Kruševac in the Bulgarian tongue. It is a considerable town, both in size and importance. There stands a handsome church, notable for its two fair towers, which can be seen from a distance. The church gives clear proof that Christianity once flourished strongly in this area.

Through Hills and Forests

From Kruševac, we traveled the whole day through hills and thick woods. The road was long and sometimes tiring, but the natural scenery was varied and pleasing. Forests covered much of the land, and the hills rose and fell gently as we continued our journey Journey to Baditzna and Changing Customs.

At the end of the day, we reached Prupci, which some believe to be the ancient Villa Procopiam, and which the Turks call Urchup. This place lies quietly among the hills and appears modest, yet welcoming to travelers.

Hospitality of a Ragusan Merchant

We stayed in Prupci until the next day, lodging at the house of a Ragusan merchant. There we were well entertained and kindly treated. The hospitality we received was warm and sincere, and it offered a pleasant rest after the hardships of the road.

The local priest, who belonged to the Roman Church, spoke Latin, which is not commonly heard in these parts. When he learned that I possessed Latin books, he asked about them with great interest. I presented him with a small volume entitled Manuductio ad Coelum. He accepted it gratefully and, in return, gave me a beautifully worked, colored handkerchief, along with several small items typical of the region.

A Local Physician and His Practice

The town also had a physician, who possessed some knowledge of medicinal herbs and simple remedies. His method of practice was both humble and practical. Each morning, he would go into the marketplace and openly invite anyone in need of medical help to come to him. In this way, he made his services known to all, especially to the poor, who might otherwise lack access to care.

This simple approach reflected the character of the place—modest, direct, and guided by necessity rather than display.

Journey to Baditzna and Changing Customs

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Journey to Baditzna and Changing Customs

From there we traveled onward to Baditzna, where I first noticed a clear change in the dress of the women. Their clothing appeared unusual to me and quite different from what I had seen before. The women wore a kind of raised head covering, almost like a small canopy placed upon the head. This headpiece, as well as the forehead, was decorated with many kinds of coins, gathered from whatever money they could obtain, especially from strangers.

To contribute to this curious custom, we left behind a few small coins among them. I have seen Greek women who dressed in a similar way, though often more richly. Their head coverings were not raised so high, but their foreheads were covered with gold ducats and pearls, which gave them a splendid appearance. These ornaments were not only decorations, but also a sign of wealth and family pride Arrival at Leskovac.

Passing Through Jagodina

After leaving Baditzna, we continued our journey to Jagodina, which is pleasantly situated in a fair and fertile country. The surrounding land was green and well watered, making it suitable for farming and settlement. From Jagodina, we set forward again, and after a few hours of travel, we turned southward.

Not long after this turn, we saw, on the right side of the road, upon the slope of a hill, the tomb of a Turkish saint. The tomb was about four yards long, with a square covered structure standing beside it. When we reached this place, our Chiaus dismounted from his horse and performed his devotions in prayer. After this brief pause, we resumed our journey.

Through Woods and Caravan Routes

We then traveled through thick and extensive woods, which were known to be dangerous because of wolves and thieves. These forests were dark and quiet, and travelers were advised to pass through them with caution. We came to Chiflick, where there was a caravanserai, or lodging place for travelers. However, this place was not always considered safe Private Guided Ephesus Tours.

Because of this, we refreshed ourselves instead at a large farmhouse not far away. It belonged to a rich wine merchant from Belgrade, and there we found food, rest, and a sense of security. This stop was welcome after the long and tiring road.

Night Journey to the River Morava

From this place, we traveled by night toward the famous River Morava, also called Moschius, the chief river of this country. The Morava rises in the mountains from two streams: one called the Morava of Bulgaria, and the other the Morava of Serbia. After joining together, the river flows onward and finally enters the Danube at Zenderin, or Singidunum, opposite the Rascian shore.

We crossed the Morava at a place where the river was wide, deep, and fast-flowing. This crossing caused us some fear, and our Chiaus prayed loudly in Turkish, while the couriers repeated the prayer “Ora pro nobis”. Their voices filled the night air as the horses struggled against the current.

Reflections on the River Crossing

After we had safely crossed, the others were not pleased with me, because I had been more silent than the rest, yet was the first to reach the opposite shore. This crossing reminded me of the swift River Varus, on the border between Provence and Italy, which I once crossed on horseback with two men beside me, struggling against the strong current.

Such river crossings show both the dangers of travel and the courage required of those who journey through distant lands.

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