From there we traveled onward to Baditzna, where I first noticed a clear change in the dress of the women. Their clothing appeared unusual to me and quite different from what I had seen before. The women wore a kind of raised head covering, almost like a small canopy placed upon the head. This headpiece, as well as the forehead, was decorated with many kinds of coins, gathered from whatever money they could obtain, especially from strangers.
To contribute to this curious custom, we left behind a few small coins among them. I have seen Greek women who dressed in a similar way, though often more richly. Their head coverings were not raised so high, but their foreheads were covered with gold ducats and pearls, which gave them a splendid appearance. These ornaments were not only decorations, but also a sign of wealth and family pride Arrival at Leskovac.
Passing Through Jagodina
After leaving Baditzna, we continued our journey to Jagodina, which is pleasantly situated in a fair and fertile country. The surrounding land was green and well watered, making it suitable for farming and settlement. From Jagodina, we set forward again, and after a few hours of travel, we turned southward.
Not long after this turn, we saw, on the right side of the road, upon the slope of a hill, the tomb of a Turkish saint. The tomb was about four yards long, with a square covered structure standing beside it. When we reached this place, our Chiaus dismounted from his horse and performed his devotions in prayer. After this brief pause, we resumed our journey.
Through Woods and Caravan Routes
We then traveled through thick and extensive woods, which were known to be dangerous because of wolves and thieves. These forests were dark and quiet, and travelers were advised to pass through them with caution. We came to Chiflick, where there was a caravanserai, or lodging place for travelers. However, this place was not always considered safe Private Guided Ephesus Tours.
Because of this, we refreshed ourselves instead at a large farmhouse not far away. It belonged to a rich wine merchant from Belgrade, and there we found food, rest, and a sense of security. This stop was welcome after the long and tiring road.
Night Journey to the River Morava
From this place, we traveled by night toward the famous River Morava, also called Moschius, the chief river of this country. The Morava rises in the mountains from two streams: one called the Morava of Bulgaria, and the other the Morava of Serbia. After joining together, the river flows onward and finally enters the Danube at Zenderin, or Singidunum, opposite the Rascian shore.
We crossed the Morava at a place where the river was wide, deep, and fast-flowing. This crossing caused us some fear, and our Chiaus prayed loudly in Turkish, while the couriers repeated the prayer “Ora pro nobis”. Their voices filled the night air as the horses struggled against the current.
Reflections on the River Crossing
After we had safely crossed, the others were not pleased with me, because I had been more silent than the rest, yet was the first to reach the opposite shore. This crossing reminded me of the swift River Varus, on the border between Provence and Italy, which I once crossed on horseback with two men beside me, struggling against the strong current.
Such river crossings show both the dangers of travel and the courage required of those who journey through distant lands.